3/20/2023 0 Comments Wet dry wet guitar rig diagram![]() ![]() The guitar itself is completely noiseless.įret-bevelling tools with diamond files are used to smooth and tidy up the fret ends To the edge It certainly seems to work because when I perform a final check before fixing everything down, the only noise I can hear is coming from the amp. Presumably there’s conductive paint lining the cavities and this adds a further level of noise shielding. The battery negative connects to the sleeve tag, so when a mono jack plug is inserted, the battery negative connects to ground, which activates the preamp circuit.įinally, there’s a small indent to the side of the control cavity with a screw used for another ground wire that has a metal connector soldered onto the end. The signal wire is soldered to the jack socket’s tip tag and the ground wires go to the centre tag, which is permanently grounded. The ground wires from the spring claw and boost control are routed through to the socket cavity, along with the signal wire and the battery’s negative connection. The battery wedges into this recess adjacent to the vibrato springs and the plastic cover holds it in place ![]() It wedges in tightly and is held in place by the cover plate. ![]() The battery is mounted at the rear of the body, in a recess that’s added to the side of the vibrato spring cavity. The board’s lead-out wires pass through a channel into the control cavity, where there’s a hole for the battery clip. Although it’s a bit fiddly to keep the spacers in position, I manage to reinstall the board in the hole that’s routed just beneath the pickup cavities. I find a couple of self-tapping screws that seem about the right length and diameter. Although the board has a screw hole at each corner, Fender only used two, arranged diagonally with plastic spacers placed between the body and the board. The preamp circuit board is only attached by the solder joints that link it to the controls, so the whole assembly needs to be handled carefully. The circuit board is secured with two corner screws and the body ground connection is located just above the coloured wires Mounting up I attribute the noise to a grounding issue and decide to press ahead with installing the electronics into the new body. It’s all quite noisy, but when I tap the pickups I discover they’re working and the controls all appear to be behaving as expected. With the new Lace Sensors mounted on the pickguard and soldered in, I connect a healthy battery to the battery clip and connect the output to a guitar amp. I decide to use the new one and temporarily solder the circuit ground, audio output and battery negative wires as shown on the schematic. The ground, signal and battery negative wires are temporarily soldered to a new output socket to test the circuitĬhris’ pile of parts includes an unusual switching socket with four tags, but there’s a new stereo socket attached to the socket cup. Here, Chris is a step ahead of me, and the diagram he provided shows a stereo output socket with three solder tags. You shouldn’t work on projects like this without referring to a circuit diagram and a Google search usually produces the necessary results. As fault-finding goes, it’s an encouraging start, and Chris has provided a set of brand-new Lace Sensors just in case. Setting my multimeter to its 20k resistance range, I get a 5.7k reading from one pickup, but nothing from the other two. The new pickups are mounted, with the orange wires connected to the switch and the green and white ground wires connected to the volume pot Here the orange wires are connected to the five-way selector switch, and the white and green wires are soldered to the volume pot casing – all except the neck pickup, which isn’t connected at all.
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